England’s south coast used to be a popular holiday destination for Brits before the advent of cheap holidays to the Mediterranean sun spots. It fell from favour, with people seeing it as a holiday destination for retirees (and did Torquay ever recover from Fawlty Towers failing to deliver herds of majestic wildebeest or the hanging gardens of Babylon?). But the complications of Brexit, and the rising cost of living have seen a resurgence. The popular destinations remain the seaside resorts – Eastbourne, Brighton, Hastings, etc – but Rye tends to get forgotten. It used to be beside the sea – but the vagaries of coastal dynamics has seen the coastline move three kilometres away from Rye. But Rye’s town centre is an undiscovered – or more accurately, forgotten – historic jewel.
Rye is a place for walking. Narrow cobbled streets, medieval buildings, an ancient church – plenty to see and enjoy.
Rye has a significant history – it was an important member of the mediaeval Cinque Ports confederation, and at the time was almost entirely surrounded by the sea. Historians believe its importance as a port goes back to Roman times.
Probably the most picturesque part of the town is on the highest part, where you’ll find St Mary’s Parish Church, and a network of narrow streets and alleys. Youll also find the famous – or infamous – Mermaid Inn, the haunt of the Hawkhurst Gang of smugglers who were eventually hung for their crimes in the 1500s.
The cobbled lanes are a photographer’s dream, and its easy to imagine how life must have been in medieval times.
If you decide to visit, Rye is a good centre for exploring the East Sussex/West Kent area. Nearby is Camber Sands (which has stood in as the Arabian desert on any number of cheap TV shows).
There is an Arts Festival in September, and the town has a history of connection with the artistic world, including writers like Henry James, E F Benson and Joseph Conrad.
While you’re in Rye, you should visit Rye Castle, which has a rich history of smuggling, and the Mermaid Inn (see above).
You don’t need to be intrepid
Rye is on the A259, which runs along the coast. There’s no major route from London, but you can get join the A259 iby travelling down to Hastings on the A21, or on the A2070 from Ashford have travelled down the M20.
You can get there by train from Victoria Station, changing once.
